INCI Corner

This comprehensive listing is gathered from various sources such as published cosmetic journals, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry catalogs, and supplier provided ingredient literature.

Adenosine

Adenosine is naturally occurring in the body as Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) and is the storehouse molecule for energy. The adenosine found in skincare is derived from yeast that functions as a good soothing and skin-restoring agent. It has proven anti-wrinkle benefits due to its ability to energize skin’s surface to make it look smoother and younger.

Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract

Good ‘ol pineapple fruit extract contains bromelain and fruit acids that have mild exfoliant properties, and fruit sugars and amino acids that give the pineapple fruit nice moisturizing and soothing properties. The natural exfoliating properties of this extract help in better penetration of other ingredients of the formulation in a very gentle manner.

Arbutin

Extracted from the bearberry plant, this complexion-brightening antioxidant is known as a natural (and milder) alternative to skin-bleaching hydroquinone. Arbutin works by directly inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase enzymes central to the production of melanin.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl Glucoside is one of the most stable Vitmain C derivatives, and in-vitro studies have shown that it can penetrate the dermis to give all the amazing benefits your skin requires. In-vitro studies also show that after Ascorbyl Glucoside is absorbed into the skin it is converted to pure Vitamin C. It also shows all the three anti-aging benefits (antioxidant protection + collagen boosting + fading hyperpigmentation) that pure vitamin C does.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble or lipid-soluble tetra ester derivative of Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). This derivative in its natural state is easily absorbed through the skin barrier and is not eliminated through aquaporins (water absorption channels in cells). This ensures faster percutaneous absorption than other forms of Vitamin C owing to its lipid solubility. This also has lower irritancy potential, improves hyperpigmentation and increases Trans Epidermal Water Loss. Other observed benefits are increased skin elasticity and visible improvement in skin texture and wrinkles.

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice

The sap (“juice”) from the birch tree known by its Latin name of Betula Alba. Birch Sap is a skin barrier soothing and hydrating tree sap. Packed with 17 amino acids, antioxidants, enzymes, minerals, and proteins it fortifies the skin barrier. Not only is it loaded with skin-loving nutrients, but it is also more hydrating than water for the skin due to its tiny molecules which allow the skin to absorb better. In formulating Hustle, we replaced water as the base solvent with Birch Sap for this very reason. It helps to prevent moisture loss from your skin while maintaining a positive oil-moisture barrier. Studies have shown that birch sap juice helps in skin homeostasis and keratinocytes differentiation, thereby strengthening your skin barrier.

Bifida Ferment Lysate

It is a product derived from fermentation of Bifida (Bifidobacterium longum), a bacterium found in the human digestive system. It is a prebiotic and it is believed to bring pH of skin down to maintain the healthy microflora of the skin. Bifidobacteria produces nutrient-rich metabolites during proliferation and growth. The fragmented component of cell itself has a large amount of beneficial substances, which has a significant balance and promotion effect on the growth of human epidermal probiotics.

Butylene Glycol

These two peptides work synergistically to restore and maintain the skin’s youthful appearance by signaling to cells to produce more collagen. Numerous studies have proven that these two peptides together show great their anti-aging and anti-wrinkle properties. Changes in reduction of wrinkle depth, volume and density, skin roughness and complexity, as well as a decrease.

Carbomer

Carbomer is a common thickening ingredient used in cosmetic formulations. It creates viscous, clear gels that also feel nice and non-tacky on the skin.

Disodium Edta

Disodium EDTA binds to metal ions (which are naturally found in water) and inactivates them. The binding of metal ions helps prevent the deterioration of cosmetics. It also helps to maintain clarity and prevent rancidity of the formulation.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Ethylhexylglycerin is a medium emollient but more importantly it is a preservative booster, that enhances the preservative efficacy of other preservative ingredients in the formulation.

Fragrance

Masking fragrance is used in Hustle to balance out the smell of the ferment ingredients. Hustle contains alcohol and allergen free fragrance that is non-sensitizing on the skin. Hustle contains 0.02 ml of fragrance (i.e. 0.07% of the formulation).

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

During the process of fermentation, the galactomyces yeast break down natural ingredients that they have been added to, making new compounds that are beneficial for the skin (such as amino acids, organic acids and antioxidants). These compounds have smaller molecular size and have better penetration power into the epidermis. Clinically proven to strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier. They are a big reserve of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory substances. They also reduce melanin synthesis, and help in reducing the skin’s sebum production.

Glycerin

Glycerin is the OG humectant, meaning that it helps our skin to cling onto water. It keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier.

Glycolipids

Glycolipids are biosurfactants produced by different yeasts, and have unique crystal forming and moisturising properties. One of the many uses are as an encapsulation emulsifier for better delivery of active ingredients.

1,2-Hexanediol

1,2 hexanediol is a non-sensitizing synthetic preservative belonging to the family of higher molecular glycols. It is also a humectant, emollient, and an ingredient that boosts the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

A sugar molecule found naturally in the skin, it increases skin's moisture content and prevents water loss. It is a powerful humectant that can hold 1,000 times its weight in water. It works by attracting water molecules from the air and trapping them into your skin layers.

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a common ingredient in skin care formulations. It acts as a binder, an emulsifier, stabilizer, a film former, and a viscosity increasing agent. It is plant derived and improves the overall carrier performance of the formulation.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is another stable Vitamin C derivatives, and is water soluble. In-vitro data shows that MAP can boost collagen synthesis similar to pure Vitamin C, and in-vivo data proves that MAP works as a skin brightener. Recommended concentrations range from 0.001% – 3%.

Niacinamide

A multi-functional skincare superstar with several proven benefits for the skin. At 4-5% concentration its proven to smooth fine lines and wrinkles. At 2% concentration it fades brown spots with regular use, and increases ceramide synthesis that results in a stronger, healthier skin barrier and better skin hydration. It can help to improve several skin conditions including acne, rosacea, and atopic dermatitis. It’s truly the MVP of skincare ingredients.

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

Evening Primrose oil is a nourishing oil full of fatty acids. It is a rich source of linoleic acid (66-76%), and also contains the soothing and healing superstar fatty acid, gamma-linolenic acid. It helps to reduce inflammation and irritation, and is a superb healing agent that can truly help dry skin.

Propanediol

Propanediol is a natural solvent, produced sustainably from corn sugar. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula.

Panthenol

Panthenol is Pro-Vitamin B5, meaning it is a precursor to Vitamin B (Panthenoic Acid). Provitamin B5 stabilises the skin's barrier function, reducing the amount of water lost through the skin. This, in turn, improves skin texture and elasticity, making Panthenol ideal for treating dry, scaly or coarse skin. In addition to its moisture retaining and softening properties, Panthenol also reduces itching, redness and suppresses inflammation. Thanks to its soothing and repairing properties, Panthenol also helps relieve inflamed acne and sensitised or irritated skin.

Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 20 is an emulsifier that is used in formulation when they contain both oil soluble and water-soluble ingredients. It consists of a water-loving hydrophilic head and an oil-loving hydrophobic tail (lauric acid), that helps combine the aqueous phase of the formulation to the oil phase of the formulation. As an emulsifier it reduces the surface tension by positioning itself at the oil/water interface, which has a stabilizing effect on the emulsion.

Polyglutamic Acid

Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a water-soluble peptide that is derived from fermented soybeans. Clinical studies show that it holds upto 5000 times it’s weight in water (that’s five times more than Hyaluronic Acid). PGA also shows mild occlusive properties and hence works great to seal in the water molecules that it attracts into the epidermal layers of the skin.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide - 1

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, also called pal-GHK, is a messenger peptide for collagen renewal. It works by stimulating the synthesis of Collagen and Glycosaminoglycan, which reinforces the epidermis and results in diminishing the wrinkles.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide - 7 

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide - 7 or pal-GQPR is a fragment of immunoglobulin G. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and it decreases IL-6 secretion in a basal setting, and serves as an anti-inflammatory after exposure to UVB-irradiation.

These two peptides work synergistically to restore and maintain the skin’s youthful appearance by signaling to cells to produce more collagen. Numerous studies have proven that these two peptides together show great their anti-aging and anti-wrinkle properties. Changes in reduction of wrinkle depth, volume and density, skin roughness and complexity, as well as a decrease
of the area occupied by deep wrinkles, and an increase in skin tone, are some of the benefits observed and concluded in blind studies.  

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate is a plant based non-ionic ester emulsifier that forms stable oil-water emulsions with low viscosity, and has shown to provide enhanced moisturising factor to the formulation.

Pantolactone

Pantolactone is a humectant to help the skin retain moisture, leaving skin looking glowy, healthy and plump, but it also acts as a solvent for other ingredients.

Resveratrol

Resveratrol is a naturally occurring antioxidant that can be found in the skin of grapes, peanuts, all berries, and even dark chocolate. Resveratrol, a water-soluble antioxidant, works synergistically with fat-soluble antioxidants like vitamin E to prevent further skin aging. It is proven to be a much stronger antioxidant than even Vitamin E and Vitamin C in fighting off oxidative stress and free radicals. A phytoalexin, resveratrol is produced by plants as a protective antibiotic to fight off fungal attacks, drought, UV radiation and inflammation. Due to its antimicrobial properties, resveratrol inhibits the growth of acne-causing bacteria, as well as enhances the effects of the acne-fighter Benzoyl Peroxide. It also tackles acne inflammation and post-acne scarring by reducing redness, calming the skin and lightening dark spots, giving you a more even complexion.

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Also known as the Rosehip Oil, this is also high in its omega fatty acid content (linoleic acid - 51%, linolenic acid - 19% and oleic acid - 20%) and has skin-regenerative properties. It also contains oil-soluble tocopherols (vitamin E) and carotenoids (pro-vitamin A).

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil

Castor oil is thicker than other oils, and it’s fatty acid content has a unique fatty acid called ricinoleic acid (85-95%). Ricinoleic acid helps protect the skin against harmful bacteria and viruses, thereby preventing irritation, redness, and acne. Its potent yet gentle properties help alleviate itchiness, swelling, sunburn, and general irritation while preventing infections and inflammation. It is a very effective emollient and occlusive that reduces skin moisture loss hence is effective even in smaller concentrations in products.

Squalane

Squalane (derivative of the highly unstable molecule squalene) is naturally occurring in human sebum. Derived from either fish or olives. (Hustle contains olive derived squalene.) Its an excellent moisturizer because it acts as an emollient, surface occlusive and also reduced Transepidermal Water Loss. Squalane is suitable for all skin types, even acne prone skin.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

Jojoba oil is more of a wax ester than a plain oil. It almost mimics human sebum structure and there is anecdotal evidence that using jojoba oil regulates sebum production in oily skin types. Jojoba oil can form a semi-occlusive layer over the skin surface, and it can also penetrate the intracellular spaces to make the epidermis soft and supple.

Tocopherol

Naturally available in our skin, Tocopherol (Vitamin E) is the king of antioxidant ingredients. Being a fat soluble molecule it gets quickly absorbed into our skin. It works by protecting the skin cells from the free-radicals that destroy the collagen that makes our skin firm and supple. Learn more about antioxidants and free radicals here: (insert article link)

Tromethamine

Tromethamine is a pH stabilizer, a very important ingredient to adjust and maintain the overall pH of the formulation.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil

This is derived from the polyphenol-rich seeds of the grape, and is a light emollient oil. It’s a great source of antioxidant polyphenols, barrier repair fatty acids (linoleic acid is about 55-77%, while oleic acid is about 12-27%) and antioxidant, skin-protectant vitamin E.

Xanthan Gum

Xantham gum is a polysaccharide derived from glucose or sucrose (sugars), used mainly to increase the viscosity of liquids in cosmetic formulations. It has also shown to have skin-conditioning properties. Along with being a thickening agent, it stabilises liquids by binding to water and prevents ingredients from separating.